Subway began when a man named Fred borrowed some money from a man named Peter Buck1 to start a submarine sandwich shoppe, then formed a company, Doctor’s Associates Inc., which was named after Fred’s desire to go to medical school. The rest, as they say, is a monstrous clusterfuck full of the sort of stuff that, if it appeared in a movie, would be dubbed wildly unrealistic, and much of which is covered extensively elsewhere, sometimes even on this very site.
1 not that one
No, what we’re doing here is talking, once more, about a major chain restaurant deciding that changing their menu is going to give them a leg up. And as y’all know, I cannot resist such a thing.
Almost exactly one year ago, at the time this posted, I wrote about Subway’s travails, which at that point yielded them changing their mozzarella purveyor and, uh, slicing some of their meats thinner2, and now things are getting real serious-like.
2 you may note that in last year’s piece I didn’t know what was going on with the turkey, and was happy to have that edified. Great job, everybody
The crux of the current situation is that thye are introducing “The Subway Series”, a set of sandwiches that you order by name or by number3, and that basically come as-is, or that you can customize from there. You know, like Jersey Mike’s, except The Subway Series is on much-worse bread.
3 the press seems somewhat insistent on mentioning this
I’m still rejecting the bread, guys. Even the schmancy Hero bread. Even if the otherwise-delightful Nancy Silverton is involved. I accept none of it.
OK, so, anyway. This phase does have a couple of reasons it makes sense, at least from a business standpoint. The first is that Subway, having expanded further than they could and then had to contract, in a brick-and-mortar sense, is expanding into what they’re calling “unattended retail”, which is nonsense-speak for “vending machines”. Obviously if you’ve set with people the expectation that it’s reasonable to expect a Subway sandwich that you don’t actually customize, then it would seem that it might be easier to pivot to that sort of thing when it’s in a cooler in an airport or whatever4.
4 for a biographical reason that I’m not going to explain, but which basically everyone that already knows me knows about, I’ve driven across the country several times, and there is a tendency among a specific chain of truck stops, which are often equipped with a Subway, to sell pre-made Subway sandwiches in their grab and go cooler as it is, and I gotta tell you: they are the opposite of tempting, even if you try to forgive the bread.
The other thing is, of course (because this is a story about changes to a player in the restaurant industry in the last several years), delivery apps. While I’m certain that there are people that FoodApp some Subway to themselves, the prospect of doing so seems like it would miss something fundamental about the Subway experience, and I’d bet, given the numbers5, that people agree, and that at least some of them are in the press.
5 I apologize for most of that link – it has the relevant information in it, but Restaurant Business, the source of the information, keeps a tight paywall.
The reason, I would argue, that last year’s menu experiment gave apparent results was because it coincided, basically, with the return of people to offices and traveling and arrangements where they found themselves in the circumstances that led to people eating at Subway traditionally. Now, I may be way off base here, and it might be the thinner ham, but I’m going to proceed as though I’m correct, because this is my website.
Anyway, it’s also worth noting a passage from the above piece: “currently, its biggest rival seems to be Jersey Mike’s Subs.” They added a Jersey Mike’s menu to their existing menu, because more people are eating Jersey Mike’s and fewer people are eating at Subway. This is where I really think the thing starts making less sense, but this is not a piece about corporate philosophy, this is a piece about how Subway’s new menu is going to help them reclaim their market share and be the biggest restaurant chain ever again, no matter what John Oliver says6.
6 also, I didn’t open back up their relationship with their franchisees, because I assume it’s still a messy shitshow, but, you know: don’t open a Subway franchise, the people at Subway corporate hate their franchisees so much that they arbitrate at a completely bonkers rate for seemingly nothing. Subway doesn’t want you to anyway – they’re moving away from single-unit operators toward multi-unit owners, which I presume is meant to have some ameliorative effect. Obviously I’m including this in a footnote because, while it’s interesting, it’s tangential, and also I don’t care.
Oh, and they’ve still done nothing about the tuna. The tuna is fine. You love the tuna, actually. The tuna is everyone’s favorite thing and nobody has anything to say about the tuna unless they’re a real jerk or a liar.
So how is this new menu going to rescue Subway? By allowing us to trust the culinary minds at the central office to decide the makeup of sandwiches, rather than pointing ourselves. Surely this will get people to order the sandwiches, and not just further-muddy the whole-ass point of the enterprise in the first place. Let’s take a look!
There are four categories, each of which has three sandwiches in it, and each and every one of which could potentially mean big success! Somewhere there is a press release with what each sandwich contains in it, but that information is not available via subway’s website, even if you give it an alarming amount of location data. I’m sure that’s fine. Anyway, thanks to the people at um chewboom.com, I can see what’s on the damn things. Since Subway is setting their sights on “unattended retail,” and that one article up there suggests an ease of ordering through an app, I’ll be considering the sandwiches from that vantage point. I will, admittedly, not be eating them.
If anyone finds a way to access this menu (not the general menu, the one that includes sandwich descriptions) via the website, I will send you a Subway Series sandwich of your selection, seriously.
Onward!
Cheesesteaks
The categories, at least, make some kind of sense. A cheesesteak is traditionally served on a sub roll, the ingredients are pretty straightforward. I’m not sure what’s going on with the sandwich names7, but I get the idea, anyway.
7 obviously, a traditional outlaw sandwich is made from the meat of David Allan Coe
The Philly
WHAT IT IS: “The classic cheesesteak stacked with juicy steak and a double helping of provolone, toasted on Artisan Italian bread and topped with green peppers, red onions and mayo.”
In short, a pretty basic cheesesteak in the Philadelphia style8. It probably needs something pickled, but that would probably insult the broad vending machine appeal or whatever.
8 albeit taking a strong pro-provolone stance in the provolone/cheez-wiz divide.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: It might, actually. This is simple enough, straightforward enough, and hard enough to screw up that it’s basically a completely-different kind of bread away from being a basically successful fast-food sandwich. This is, by far, the one of these I would be most likely to order
The Outlaw
WHAT IT IS: “Juicy steak meets double Pepper Jack cheese, with green peppers, red onions and Baja Chipotle sauce, toasted on Artisan Italian bread.”
Oh, I get it. It’s “outlaw” like “cowboys,” because “Southwest”. It’s still dumb, but at least it’s not quite as nonsensical as I thought it was before I wrote this.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: I would imagine that the Baja Chipotle sauce does something to cut the meat/cheese situation, but not enough. It won’t save Subway, and really, it just seems like changing the sauce on The Philly doesn’t solve the problem. Oh, and the pepper jack cheese, about which I have basically nothing to say. It’s not better than the provolone, and it’s not peppery enough for me to enjoy it.
The Monster
WHAT IT IS: “Thick juicy steak, crisp bacon, a double helping of Monterey cheddar, green peppers and red onions piled high and served toasted on Artisan Italian bread, and topped off with creamy Peppercorn Ranch.”
This is a cheesesteak with a third (and, really, worse) kind of cheese, and also bacon. I suppose it was inevitable. It’s a steak bacon ranch sandwich.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: Their pre-made sandwiches have a heavier reliance on mayo-based sauces than I’m happy with, and I mentioned in the previous writeup that somehow fast-food bacon is almost always inedible, so I’m going to say that this is probably the worst idea in this subcategory, and move on.
Italianos
This ends up sort of the catch-all, but also is the quintessential sub category. These are the sorts of sandwiches you can find much better versions of in whatever city you’re in and are, therefore, the hardest to consider a real alternative.
Supreme Meats
WHAT IT IS: “Black Forest ham, Genoa salami, pepperoni and new capicola on fresh-baked Artisan Italian bread with provolone cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, red onions and banana peppers, all topped off with MVP Parmesan Vinaigrette.”
I need some clarification on whether “Supreme” means that this sandwich is supreme and it has meats, or if the meats are supreme. I need to know where the supremacy comes in, is what I’m saying. In any event, this has a pickle (the banana peppers) and a vinaigrette, and while I don’t know or care what “MVP” means there, this is the sandwich I would be second-most likely to get. It seems pretty heavy, but, you know.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: I mean, it might. If I’m staring down the barrel of a vending machine sandwich and they’re out of the Philly, this is a solid choice. No mayonnaise, the best cheese, whatever is going on with the capicola, this sounds fine for airport or whatever food.
Bella Mozza
WHAT IT IS: “Thin-sliced Black Forest ham, new capicola and BelGioioso Fresh Mozzarella on fresh-baked Artisan Italian bread. Topped with spinach, tomatoes, red onions and banana peppers and drizzled with tangy MVP Parmesan Vinaigrette.”
Ok, so, the first thing I have to ask is: is the “thin-sliced Black Forest ham” the same as the Black Forest ham on the Supreme MEats? Also, while we’re on the subject, he word “new” stuck in there makes me wonder if they’re announcing that they now have capicola, or if it’s part of the name of the meat9. It’s like that above, also.
9 the precedent here being that a decade ago they declared, in court, that the word “footlong” did not refer to a measurement, but was merely the thing they called the sandwich, because this restaurant has always been a mess.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: The raw spinach and the mozzarella basically make this a less-supreme version of the Supreme Meats, so no, but it could probably ride backup if you didn’t want a sandwich with four pork products on it. I mean, you’d be cutting it down to “only” two, but you know what I mean.
The Boss
WHAT IT IS: “Juicy meatballs in marinara sauce with slices of pepperoni and BelGioioso Fresh Mozzarella. Sprinkled with parmesan and served toasted on Italian Herbs & Cheese bread.”
A pepperoni meatball sub is one thing too many, but even if you take one of the meats off, you still have a classic Subway Bad Idea, in that both their regular meatball subs and their pizza subs are terrible. I do wonder if there’s a power struggle between The Boss and The Supreme, unless, again, the Supreme only refers to meats, in which case it’s probably fine. I cut out both an American Horror Story joke and a second cannibalism joke here, but you can pretend I made either one if you’d prefer.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: No, this is not going to save Subway. A meatball sub is best consumed as close to the making of the meatball sub as possible, and the bread they use at Subway10 just falls apart under the best of circumstances.
10 I know, I know, again with the bread, but it’s bad
Chicken
Would you believe that these are all chicken sandwiches? Weird, I know. Part of the first phase of the Eat Fresh Refresh was bringing back the roasted chicken, which I think I liked for a portion of my young adulthood, but also had not noticed was gone from the menu. Anyway, chicken sandwiches, you know?
The MexiCali
WHAT IT IS: “Juicy rotisserie-style chicken, smashed avocado, double Pepper Jack cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and red onions topped with smoky Baja Chipotle sauce and served toasted on Artisan Italian bread.”
Subway are definitely not the first people to use “rotisserie style” as a gussied-up version of roasted, but they’re the ones doing it right now, so it is to them that I say: stop that. It’s just roasted. There’s nothing wrong with “roasted” as an adjective. You, yourself11 use it for your turkey. Anyway, their tomatoes are problem enough, please feel free to miss me with whatever they’re still doing with avocado.
11 I’m speaking directly to Subway here
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: Absolutely not. Avocado from a vending machine is like the punchline to a joke.
The Great Garlic
WHAT IT IS: “Juicy rotisserie-style chicken, crispy bacon, provolone, lettuce, tomatoes and red onions, served toasted on Artisan Italian bread, all topped off with new creamy Roasted Garlic Aioli.”
Oh, I see, we’re also doing the “new” thing with the “aioli”. Maybe this would make more sense if the Subway Series part of the menu was accessible from the website, and I could see how it was actually written on the menu. That’d be nice. Anyway, you can see the problems coming a mile off, and they’re the tomatoes and the bacon.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: No. The bacon, the fact that chicken is basically the least-exciting option, and my deep suspicion of the garlic mayonnaise all make me think that this doesn’t have much to stand on.
The Champ
WHAT IT IS: “Tender hand-pulled rotisserie-style chicken, a double helping of Monterey Cheddar, green peppers and red onions. Topped off with creamy Peppercorn Ranch and served toasted on Artisan Italian bread.”
Now this is interesting. This says the chicken is pulled. Previously I had only associated the chicken option at subway with chunks. I’d be interested to see if that’s the case and, if it is, then this chicken ranch sandwich is something I can more-or-less endorse, especially if you leave the cheese off of it, or substitute provolone or whatever.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: No. The spirit of the exercise here is to take the sandwich as-is, and none of the problems with the monterey cheddar are solved by there being twice as much of it.
Clubs
I’m not sure what makes any of these a club12 (I did think that a third piece of bread was involved, but it turns out it’s not that), but, you know, I also agree that these are all a category, and I don’t know what else to call them.
12 I went on a rant about the mid-teens obsession with making everything an acronym last time, so I won’t repeat it here, but if any of you say anything about it being an acronym, I will buy one of these sandwiches and bop you in the damn nose with it. I will say, though, that the origin of the term is slippery, as is its definition. Still not an acronym. Nothing is an acronym.
The All-American
WHAT IT IS: “ Oven-roasted turkey, Black Forest ham, crisp bacon and American cheese with lettuce, tomatoes, red onions and mayo, on Artisan Italian bread.”
Yep, that looks just about like an all-american club sandwich, I tell you what.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: No. There used to be a “turkey and ham” sandwich that was my preferred Subway order in my “heavy traveling” days, and it was fine but not life-changing, and it definitely would not be improved by the addition of bacon (still) or tomatoes (still).
Subway Club
WHAT IT IS: ”Oven-roasted turkey, Black Forest ham, USDA Choice Roast Beef and provolone cheese piled on Hearty Multigrain bread and topped with lettuce, tomatoes, red onions and mayo.”
“Club” gets murkier here, but, perhaps surprisingly, this is an old sub (from before the time when they had discontinued the roast beef), that they’ve brought back/repurposed. While I was mentioning subs that I would get theoretically, this one is a sub that I have, in fact, ordered. Without tomatoes. Never tomatoes.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: It already didn’t, so it’s unlikely to this time.
Turkey Cali Club
WHAT IT IS: “Oven-roasted turkey, crisp bacon, BelGioioso Fresh Mozzarella and smashed Hass avocado. Topped with spinach, tomatoes, red onions and mayo, toasted on Hearty Multigrain bread.”
I like that they specify the kind of avocado as if 1) everyone didn’t already assume it was the most common kind and 2) it matters to whatever happens to the avocado to make them possible to ship and store in thousands of restaurants/vending machines. Anyway, FOH with the avocado already.
IS IT GOING TO SAVE SUBWAY: No
And there you have it! Stay tuned, probably next July something weird will have happened with this bonkers restaurant chain and I’ll be back to tell you about it! Maybe they’ll introduce yet another menu! I live in hope!